Category Archives: New Technology

2010 Cadillac CTS vs 2010 Camaro Suspension

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The Cadillac CTS has a 3L or 3.6L (LLT) Direct-injection V6 on a premium “Sigma II” chassis.  The new 2010 Chevrolet Camaro has a 3.6L (LLT) Direct Injection V6 or choice of 6.2L V8s (auto/manual have different V8s), on the “Zeta” chassis.

So what is the difference between these two mid-size, rear-wheel drive chasses?  Let’s read through the product catalogs:

Driving dynamics– 2010 Cadillac CTS

The CTS chassis enables a great balance of performance and luxury. The hardware includes structural enhancements via a tower-to-tower brace; large, four-wheel disc brakes and premium steering. Three suspension tuning levels are available: FE1 (standard), FE2 (standard on 3.6L models and optional on 3.0L models) and the FE3 sport suspension with a summer-only tire (RWD only).

All models feature an independent short/long arm (SLA) front suspension system, with performance characteristics optimized with the use of low-mass aluminum for the upper and lower control arms, as well as the knuckles. Hydraulic control arm front bushings are used for motion control and help minimize high-speed road vibration by damping energy transmitted through the vehicle structure. Also, hollow front stabilizer bars bring weight savings and are sized specifically to each of the three available suspension levels.

A multi-link rear suspension, with a fully isolated subframe that delivers excellent kinematics, contributes to a superior ride with excellent handling. The CTS Sport Wagon also features advanced chassis technology in the form of Cadillac’s StabiliTrak electronic chassis control system. It integrates the car’s standard four-channel ABS with the full-function traction control, hydraulic brake assist and engine drag control systems.

2010 Cadillac CTS Suspension choices:

FE1 FE2 FE3 CTS-V
Configuration RWD or AWD RWD or AWD RWD RWD
Differential: open limited-slip limited-slip limited-slip
Front: independent SLA with monotube shock absorbers; 24-mm hollow stabilizer bar (RWD); 33-mm hollow stabilizer bar (AWD) independent SLA with monotube shock absorbers; 29-mm hollow stabilizer bar (RWD); 33-mm hollow stabilizer bar (AWD) independent SLA with monotube shock absorbers; 29-mm hollow stabilizer bar independent SLA; 29-mm hollow stabilizer bar; elastomeric handling and ride bushings; 65-N/mm spring rate; Magnetic Ride Control with electro-magnetically controlled shocks
Rear : independent multi-link with monotube shock absorbers; 18-mm hollow stabilizer bar (RWD); 19 mm hollow stabilizer bar (AWD) independent multi-link with monotube shock absorbers; 20-mm hollow stabilizer bar (RWD); 19-mm hollow stabilizer bar (AWD) independent multi-link with monotube shock absorbers; 20-mm hollow stabilizer bar independent SLA; 24-mm solid stabilizer bar; elastomeric trailing arm bushing; 90-N/mm spring rate; Magnetic Ride Control with electro-magnetically controlled shocks

Here is the product catalog description for the Camaro suspension:

Chassis and suspension– 2010 Chevrolet Camaro

Fully independent front and rear suspensions are the underpinnings of the 2010 Camaro. The standard independent rear suspension is a first for Camaro and is designed to compete with the best in the world. It’s a 4.5-link system that includes a unique, L-shaped upper control arm that attaches to the knuckle at one end and incorporates a ride bushing in the rear.

Two suspension packages are offered: FE2 sport on V-6 models and FE3 performance with the V-8. The front suspension has a dual ball strut system, with a direct-acting stabilizer bar that measures 22.2 x 4 mm on FE2 and 23 x 4.2 mm on FE3. Hollow bars are used for mass savings. Rear suspension features include high lateral stiffness for handling via three lateral ball joints per side. A sub-frame at the rear is double-isolated to minimize vehicle body motions and dampen road imperfections. Coil-over shock absorbers are used in the rear with a decoupled, hollow stabilizer bar. FE2 includes a 21.7 x 3 mm rear bar, while the FE3’s large bar measures 23 x 3 mm.

2010 Camaro Chassis / Suspension

Front: double-ball-joint, multi-link strut; direct-acting stabilizer bar; progressive-rate coil springs; fully adjustable camber, caster and toe
Rear: 4.5-link independent; progressive-rate coil springs over shocks; stabilizer bar; fully adjustable camber and toe

Conclusion?  Very similar descriptions.  In summary one might say:

  • The CTS suspension has more aluminum components and more isolation as one would expect from a Luxury chassis. The CTS uses a short/long arm front suspension and a mult-link rear suspension.
  • The Camaro suspension features a double pivot McPhearson front strut suspension, and an independent rear suspension system very similar to that of Sigma II but using cheaper steel rather than aluminum to save cost.

Man our old LaSalle ran great… Learning to be Frugal

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Automobile News has an article / essay arguing that many auto dealers are finding that regular customers are trading ‘down’ — buying less expensive luxury cars to replace more expensive luxury cars.  Other buyers are shopping for used cars, or buying out their lease at the end of the lease.  Some buyers are focused on not giving the appearance of buying a new car — so they need the same model and color of car, or buy a less obviously ostentatious car, say a sedan instead of a convertible — so as not to appear to be doing well.  A related article is about how fewer people are financing cars, or financing less of the car deal, and F&I offices in dealerships are reducing staff.

Searching Google, there are thousands of hits for the phrase Frugal the new black.  Very popular topic, Frugality.

Is frugal the new ‘black’, meaning much more popular these days?  Many of the Generation that lived through the Great Depression in the United States (and the rest of the world for that matter) became stereotypically frugal for the rest of their lives.  Suddenly going from the heyday to rampant unemployment and food lines left a permanent memory of shortages, one they always kept in the back of their mind.  “Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without” was a household aphorism.

As more and more people learn to cut back on excess, pay off  their debts, and live within their means, is it possible that this will be a permanent sea change?  Will we see the market for new cars continue to stay at the current reduced levels, and the market for used cars continue to be at elevated levels?

How can we be frugal with our Cadillacs?

1) Wash and wax it yourself.  Savings:  up to $10/week
2) Keep your new car for 8-12 years instead of buying a new car every 4-5 years.  Savings:  up to the cost of a new Cadillac.
3)  Maintain your Cadillac; oil changes, oil filter, air filter are all easy to maintain and to learn to maintain.  Savings:  Around $30/oil change doing it yourself; about 1/2 for filters buying online vs buying retail.  A Helm’s shop manual (the official GM shop manuals) is invaluable for this — check ebay for used copies!
4) When you need new parts replaced that you can’t do yourself, ask if you can buy the part online and bring it to the Mechanic.
5) Keep visiting Caddyinfo.com for helpful advice and support.  Questions always welcome about your Cadillac.

Do you have other favorite Frugal Cadillac habits?

The Cadillac of CO2 offsets?

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After Matt Daimon mentioned CO2 offsets during his cameo appearance for OneXOne on Entourage (great job btw), I got to thinking about this topic.  The idea of carbon offsets is that if your normal lifestyle, such as driving a Cadillac, causes CO2 emissions, then you would do things like plant trees, or use less electricity that would then offset your emissions.  Using less electricity indirectly causes the power company to need to burn less coal to fire the electric power plant to send the electrons down the wire to your big screen TV.

At fueleconomy.gov one can find the Environmental Protection Agency’s estimate of what the ‘normal’ CO2 emissions for your vehicle are.  In my case, my 2005 Cadillac CTS 3.6L Automatic when driving 15,000 miles a year probably causes around 9.6 tons of CO2 per year.

Note that fuel cost estimates are based on 45% highway driving, 55% city driving, 15000 annual miles and a fuel cost of $ 2.58 per gallon . You may customize these values to reflect the cost of fuel in your area and your own driving patterns.

Okay, so that gives a figure to work from — 9.6 annual tons of CO2. Seems like a lot but note that this includes not just the emissions from the car, but the entire process of getting the fuel from the ground, to the refinery, into the car, and final use.

The carbon footprint measures greenhouse gas emissions expressed in CO2 equivalents. The estimates presented here are “full fuel-cycle estimates” and include the three major greenhouse gases emitted by motor vehicles: carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, and methane. Full fuel-cycle estimates consider all steps in the use of a fuel, from production and refining to distribution and final use. Vehicle manufacture is excluded. (U.S. Department of Energy, GREET Model 1.7, Argonne National Laboratory).

Now there are a variety of websites & services available who would be happy to sell you carbon offsets.  Here is one list. A carbon offset is supposedly a NEW tree planted, or a NEW investment in environmental cleanup, or clean energy, that would not have occurred unless you had purchased the carbon offset.

This is a very tricky market, and there of course are people perfectly willing to SELL you carbon offsets that consist merely of the receipt you receive on the sale!  Alternately, companies are fast to offer to buy real offsets at $0.20/ton and sell them to you at $10/ton!  CCX sells on the Chicago exchange, and is at $0.10 / metric ton as of this writing.  So for my 9.6 tons of CO2 output from driving 15,000 miles / year I need around $1 worth of offsets at current prices?  I find this amusing.

How can you truly be carbon neutral?  Until the carbon offset market is much more transparent, I think I’ll stick to other suggestions on sites like offsetcarbonfootprint.org : use filtered water instead of bottled water, keep my A/C filter and dryer screen clean, turn off electronics when not in use, use a programmable thermostat at home, keep my vehicle in top condition, and keep enjoying my Cadillac.