Support Caddyinfo.com There
are two easy ways to contribute to Caddyinfo.com
1) Caddyinfo
Discussion Forum
Contribution or Subcription click here
2) Direct contribution via Paypal, click the button below.
Join the forum
Join the Caddyinfo.com forum and share your knowledge of Cadillacs and
Cadillac Culture.
Write Cadillac Articles Email or post your articles to share with other Cadillac enthusiasts!
First of all I'd
like to say that the genuine Cadillac workshop manual is NOT correct in
some aspects describing the removal of the evaporator core. At least
this applies to my 1992 Eldo German spec.
Here's how I'd recommend to do it:
Recover refrigerant (if not lost already).
Drain coolant (drain cock at left bottom of radiator). Engine should
not be hot.
Remove radiator filler cap.
Remove strut support bar from left and right strut tower.
Remove MAT-sensor connector and bracket from rear valve cover and lay
aside.
Separate heater hoses at T-connector above valve cover. Leave the
bulkhead heater core connections alone. It is not necessary to
disturb them. (Factory manual says remove them, but they're
wrong). Move the hoses out of the way.
Disconnect power module connector and remove module (three screws).
Disconnect blower motor and remove screws (five). You will notice that
there's not enough space to get the blower out. Look at casing around
blower motor: You will see a script telling you to cut the sound
insulation in case you want to remove the blower motor. Do so,
cut along three channels shown. Cut through to blower opening,
but leave the 'flaps' attached to bulkhead side. Lifting the
'flaps', you will see a screw holding a little cover. Remove this
screw, remove cover and slide out blower motor with fan attached, (the
manual does not describe this procedure. They say you should tilt the
blower motor with fan, and separate the fan from the blower motor. I
found this is not possible). Refer to drawing below, cut along the red
lines, do not cut at green lines.
Remove heat shield, two screws from above, two screws from below. Pull
down heat shield above catalytic converter. Be careful, heat
shield has sharp edges!
Disconnect the electrical connector from the pressure switch on
evaporator line.
Unscrew the refrigerant lines from the evaporator.
Remove clamp from upper refrigerant line, pull line out and move out of
way upwards. Remove evaporator line retaining bracket (3 + 1 screw).
Remove wiring loom bracket screws from rear valve cover.
Remove screws from evaporator casing all around. Note where they
belong. Leave alone three screws above and below heater hoses! You
don't need to take them out, and they are bears to get at!! Ask me how
I know... (The manual does not tell you this)
Cut the sound insulator from top to bottom where shown, approximately
where the evap lines emerge from the casing. It's written in front of
the casing "cut here to remove barrier". (The manual does not tell you)
Refer to drawing below, cut along red line.
Reach down and remove electrical connector from power steering line,
right below the evap casing.
Remove the sound insulator. Then you will see two screws under the
remaining part of the sound insulator. Remove these screws.
Feel at the underside of the casing, or use a mirror: There's one
plastic clip which still retains the cover to the bulkhead. Push in the
tags on the left and right side of the clip, and the evaporator cover
can be taken out.
Pull out the evaporator. Remove the pressure switch from the evap line.
Pull out five plastic clips which fix a plastic gauze to one side of
the evaporator.
It is a good idea to change the spark plugs at this stage, you will
never again be able reach them so easily!
Now start putting it all back together....
Remarks:
I did not know about the fact that there's a hidden opening to remove
the blower motor. I couldn't get it out, so I decided to remove the
rocker cover. This is NOT a good idea. Leave the rocker cover alone if
possible. It is very difficult to remove and install. Once I had the
screws off, I couldn't put it back together without removal, 'cause the
gasket fell out. This cost me several hours, including a trip to the
dealer to get a new gasket.
The removal of the heater hoses at the bulkhead is very time consuming,
as they hard to get at. Leave them alone!
The manual also says that there is a "diverter valve" on the rear valve
cover. My car was not equipped so. Your car might be, I can't say
anything about removing this item.
Do not forget to add refrigerant oil to the replaced component.
In case of the evaporator, the manual states 90ml (3 oz.). This
oil should be added into the evap.
I hope someone can use these instructions. If I had known the
"hidden" secrets, I could have done it in half the time. I'd
guess the whole job can be done in about six hours.
All what is written here is from my own experience, with my own car.
There may be different versions of cars, so the procedures may
vary. I can not be responsible for errors, though I tried to do
my best to avoid any.
I would suggest that this job should only be carried out by someone who
has experience repairing cars. This in no job for a beginner!
For reference: My manual is published by GM Detroit, dated 4/92.
CaddyInfo
Discussion Forum
Where Cadillac Fans meet to Discuss Cadillacs
Xtreme Motorsports
Custom Cadillacs for performance and style
Cadillac
Acceleration Testing
0-60 mph, Quartermile, etc
Cadillac Performance
Modifications
How do I add HP?
Ebay Auctions for Cadillac Wheels/Tires
Cardio-Doc knows Wheels
Archive
of Cadillac Photos
Cars of People on the Board
How to Link to
Caddyinfo
Images and URLs
Cadillac
Books
Cadillac Book Reviews and Book Search